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Roast Chicken, Au Jus

9/16/2016

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This delicious recipe is directly adapted from a delightful cookbook called Handbook of Practical Cookery (1868) by French chef Pierre Blot. Although it dates back to the nineteenth century, it is easily modified for modern kitchens. Adding a little water to the pan steams the chicken at first, creating a moist interior. Removing the foil or lid toward the end of the cooking time allows the outside to get crispy and turn a nice caramel color.

Who was Pierre Blot? 
 
Pierre Blot was a charismatic French chef who arrived in New York City in the mid 1900s. He saw the opportunity for a French cooking school, but realized he needed to fine-tune his English, so he initially worked as a French teacher in New York Schools and private homes. By 1865 he had taken advantage of New York’s burgeoning role as a gastronomic center by opening the New York Cooking Academy at 90 Fourth Avenue.
 
The inaugural class was launched with much fanfare and well reported in New York newspapers. The menu included the chicken au jus recipe featured below, as well as pot au feu (a beef and vegetable soup); striped bass with Hollandaise sauce; filet of mutton, larded and braised; spinach à la crème; turnips (as a garniture for boiled beef); and Genoise cake with almonds. Quite an enterprising agenda for one afternoon.
 
The New York Times reporter who sat in on Blot’s first lesson was particularly intrigued by the au jus technique for preparing roast chicken, calling it “entirely different from the ordinary method, as in fact were nearly all the professor's proceedings.” While Blot described the au jus methodology (a meat dish dressed with its own juices or gravy), his skilled female assistant deftly trimmed, cleaned and “trussed” the chicken, placing it in two pans, one inside the other, the larger containing some water.  She then covered the chicken with buttered paper, carefully making sure it extended beyond the edges of the pan. The professor explained that this protective covering prevented the oven’s intense heat from scorching the meat, and helped catch and hold the steam that rose from the bottom pan, ensuring that it was continually basted and cooked “beautifully almost without care.” Think of it as a nineteenth century version of an oven “steamer bag.”
 
Pierre Blot was such a fascinating culinary trailblazer that I have decided to make him the subject of my next book. As I work on adapting some of his recipes, I have enlisted some foodie friends to help with the testing process. So far the feedback has been overwhelmingly positive! My friend Maureen claimed that the chicken was probably the best she’d ever made, noting that the butter made a big difference. She usually uses olive oil instead of butter for basting, but will definitely use butter for roasting from now on. She also went a little higher than the suggested 165 degrees for the internal temperature, but the chicken was still incredibly moist and flavorful. Another friend, Martha Sprowles, described the chicken as absolutely delicious – very juicy with a "buttery and wonderful" flavor. I also agree from my own experience making this dish that the end result is the best roast chicken ever - extremely moist and flavorful. Would love to get your take! Enjoy.
 
Roast Chicken, Au Jus
  • One small chicken, about 3-5 pounds
  • Salt
  • Pepper
  • 1 lemon
  • 1 stick butter​

  1. Preheat oven to 400°F. Season the chicken inside and out with salt, pepper and lemon juice. Add some lemon peel and a large lump of butter to the cavity. Rub generously with butter and place it on a rack inside a well-greased roasting pan.
  2. Wrap a buttered piece of parchment paper or aluminum foil around the chicken (or use a roasting pan with a lid). Add ½ cup water to pan.
  3. Bake for 45 minutes and then remove foil or lid and continue baking until juices run clear and a meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the breast and thigh reads 165°F, about 30-45 min. depending on the size of the chicken.
  4. Let rest for 15 minutes before carving. Serve with the roasting juices left in the pan, skimming off any surface fat.
 
Yield: 4 servings
 
Adapted from Handbook of Practical Cookery by Pierre Blot, 1868

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Maureen's chicken before ... with lots of yummy butter!
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And after... looks delicious!
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Gâteaux de Milan 

9/5/2016

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In the nineteenth century, these fashionable little cakes were often made in tandem with bite-sized cakes called Swiss Penny Cakes, which were about the size of a Swiss penny. The two were a perfect combination since the Swiss Penny Cakes called for egg whites, and the Gateaux de Milan required egg yolks. Today we would consider these petite delicacies cookies.
 
Nineteenth century French chef Pierre Blot taught this recipe to his students at the New York Cooking Academy in the late 1860s. Considered America’s first celebrity chef, Blot’s teaching style was lively and conversational. His kitchen-classroom was prominently positioned on the stage of a huge lecture hall so his enthralled students could clearly see him describing the technique while his assistant demonstrated the process. First she mixed together butter, sugar, flour and egg. She then rolled out this dough into a large, very thin cake, and used a fancy tin cutter to cut out several little cakes. Next she beat an egg with a spoonful of water in a cup and lightly “painted” this mixture on the tops of the little cakes using a camel’s-hair brush, transferred them to a greased pan and popped them in the oven.

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Blot explained that the cakes must be slightly burned around the edges in order for the centers to cook completely. To reinforce this advice, his assistant showed how a smaller tin cutter was placed over each little cake once it was baked and cooled in order to “remove the burned portions of the Gateaux.”
 
The result is a deliciously buttery cookie with a hint of lemon – simple, delectable elegance. In France, they are often featured during the Christmas season. Some recipes call for Cognac or rum; others for milk or cream. Use whatever tickles your fancy!
 
Gateaux de Milan
  • 2 sticks softened butter
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 2 egg yolks
  • 2-3 tbsp. milk or cream ​(or 1-2 tbsp. Cognac or rum)
  • Zest from one lemon
  • 3 cups sifted flour​
  1. Preheat oven to 375°F. Cream the butter and sugar, then add the eggs, milk (or other liquid) and lemon zest until well mixed. Slowly add the flour a little at a time until thoroughly incorporated. Chill dough for one hour.
  2. Knead lightly on a floured surface and roll out to a thickness of a little less than ¼ inch. Add a bit more flour if dough still seems sticky. Cut into shapes with cookie cutters, glaze with beaten egg white and place on baking sheets lined with parchment paper.
  3. Bake for 10-15 minutes. Cookies will spread during baking. Trim any burned edges by placing cookie cutter over cookie pressing down. Sprinkle with granulated or colored decorating sugar if desired. 

​Yield: About 3 dozen small cakes
 
Source: Good Housekeeping, May 1893; “The Cooking Academy – Seventh Lecture,” The Cincinnati Enquirer, April 19, 1865, p. 2
 


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    Author

    So much of our history can be learned through food!
    My second book, The Thousand Dollar Dinner, follows the unique story of a luxurious 17-course feast that helped launch the era of grand banquets in nineteenth century America. I am also the author of Mrs Goodfellow: The Story of America's First Cooking School.

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