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Champagne frappe à la glacé

8/26/2015

5 Comments

 
Picture
Frozen cocktails might seem like a twentieth century invention, popularized by that indispensable modern kitchen tool, the blender. However, slushy drinks and sorbets were actually very fashionable during the Victorian era. These icy refreshments were served alongside rich soups, as palate-cleansers between courses, or enjoyed as frosty desserts.

Nineteenth century Philadelphia restaurateur James Parkinson was the master at inventing delicious, eye-catching frozen concoctions. For his famous Thousand Dollar Dinner in 1851, he pulled out every stop, creating a luxurious, rejuvenating sorbet using an extremely rare and expensive Hungarian Tokaji wine, which he served during the coup du milieu, or mid-point of the meal.

But perhaps Parkinson’s best-known signature creation was Champagne frappe à la glacé, a frothy drink made with the French sparkling wine, which literally translated means “Champagne hits the ice”. He chose to feature this popular treat during the “Ice Creams and Water Ices” course at the Thousand Dollar Dinner. Champagne frappe à la glacé was so revered that Philadelphians raved about it. As one local newspaper reported in 1850, "Parkinson, the great Confectioner of South Eighth Street, has added a new "ice" to his list of luxuries; Champagne frappe à la glacé, which is so popular that several have already attempted to wrest its undoubted invention from him.”

He apparently kept this recipe such a secret that I was unable to find a copy of it. However, it was so intriguing that I wanted to try to duplicate the taste and consistency as best I could. Champagne frappe is basically half frozen champagne, and à la glacé means “with ice,” so my take on the recipe was to serve semi-frozen Champagne over Champagne-flavored water ice.

Since alcohol has a much lower freezing point than water, it is rather difficult to freeze. But I attempted the instructions as advised in the 1889 cookbook Practical Cooking and Dinner Giving by Mary Foote Henderson: “The ice should be pounded quite fine, then an equal amount of salt mixed with it. A quart bottle of Champagne well surrounded by this mixture should be frozen in two hours, or rather frozen to the degree when it may be poured from the bottle.”

For champagne-flavored water ice, there were actually quite a few nineteenth century recipes to choose from. I ended up combining elements of a few different ones to create my version of the icy treat, freezing it in my ice-cream maker, but any clean, tinned copper or stainless steel container will work. This recipe can take quite a while to freeze, so I do recommend starting it at least a day before you wish to serve it.

Champagne Frappe à la Glacé

  • 2 cups sugar
  • 2 cups water 
  • Zest and juice from three lemons 
  • 2 bottles champagne

  1. Place bowl of ice cream maker or other tinned or steel bowl in freezer overnight or at least eight hours, until sufficiently chilled. 
  2. Make a simple syrup by combining the sugar and water in a large saucepan and bring to a boil over medium heat. Reduce heat to low and simmer without stirring until the sugar dissolves, about 3 to 5 minutes. Cool completely. 
  3. Take the bowl out of the freezer. Pour lemon juice and zest into bowl and then add a bottle of champagne. Add sugar syrup to taste – I recommend starting with just a cup and adding more if needed.  (I did not want mine too sweet so I ended up using about half the syrup and refrigerating the rest for another time).
  4. Mix using an ice cream maker as per the manufacturers instructions. When done, return to freezer until ready to use. If using tinned bowl, transfer to the freezer and freeze for several hours, checking periodically and stirring the mix if necessary.

PictureChilling the Champagne
        5.    Two hours prior to serving, place a bottle of chilled Champagne                  in an ice bucket. Surround with an equal amount of crushed ice                  and ice cream salt. 
         6.  When ready to serve, spoon a scoop of water ice into                                      Champagne flutes and pour the semi-frozen Champagne over. 

What a pretty, refreshing drink! The Champagne's effervescent bubbles were a nice contrast to the water ice (a pleasant mix of sweet and sour which would be lovely all on its own).  My taste testers all raved about its delicious, unique taste and icy consistency– a perfect summer cocktail. Parkinson knew what he was doing!


5 Comments
CurryCook
2/8/2016 05:45:16 am

Hi, I'd love to know if the champagne was partially frozen when poured or just very cold?

Reply
Becky link
2/8/2016 07:48:36 am

Thanks for your question! The champagne was really, really cold, which was perfect. Since the water ice was frozen, once the frosty champagne was poured over it, it gave the drink a nice slushy consistency. All the things I read in my research said to never put the champagne bottle in the freezer as it can explode. The ice bucket/salt combination works great. If you try it, please let me know!

Reply
CurryCook
2/8/2016 06:46:36 pm

Thanks for the fascinating recipe! I read about wine frappe in _Devil in the White City_ and came across your site while looking for historical recipes. Now I'm excited to read your books!

Reply
Becky link
2/8/2016 07:02:35 pm

Thank you so much! I loved Devil in the White City. Erik Larson is such an amazing writer - I'm honored one of his books led you to my site!

Reply
Winnie link
11/29/2020 05:41:37 pm

Great blog you have heere

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    Author

    So much of our history can be learned through food!
    My second book, The Thousand Dollar Dinner, follows the unique story of a luxurious 17-course feast that helped launch the era of grand banquets in nineteenth century America. I am also the author of Mrs Goodfellow: The Story of America's First Cooking School.

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