Also known as kisses, meringues were a popular Gilded Age treat that incorporated many different flavorings, including lemon, rosewater, vanilla, coconut, and even caraway seeds, creating a large number of taste combinations. Dimples were meringues scattered with crushed almonds. This recipe is quite simple; it just requires a kitchen that is not too humid and some time to dry bake the cookies at a low heat.

Makes 4 1/2 dozen cookies 

• 4 egg whites
• 1 cup superfine sugar* 
• 1 teaspoon lemon juice
• 2 teaspoons finely grated lemon zest 
• 2 teaspoons cornstarch

Preheat oven to 225°F. Line baking sheets with parchment paper.

Using an electric mixer, beat the egg whites in a large glass or stainless steel bowl on low speed until soft peaks form, about 3–4 minutes, then increase speed to medium and slowly add the sugar a little at a time. 

Continue beating until stiff peaks form. Add the lemon juice and rind and beat for about 30 seconds or until well mixed. Add the cornstarch and beat another 30 seconds, just until incorporated. 

 Using a fork or small cookie scoop, drop meringue about an inch apart on baking sheets, twirling into a “kiss” shape, being careful not to overcrowd. You can also place the meringue in a pastry bag and pipe it onto the baking sheets in a star pattern. 

Bake for 1 1/2 hours, rotating once. The time will vary depending on the room temperature and humidity. The cookies will be done when smooth and hard to the touch. 

Remove from the oven and allow to cool on the baking sheets for 15 minutes, then transfer to wire racks and let cool completely.

* If you can’t find superfine sugar, simply process granulated sugar for one minute in a food processor or blender