Betteraves Nouvelles au Beurre

Literally translated as “buttered new beets,” this dish was often served at banquet dinners during the Gilded Age, including one hosted by Philadelphia's Clover Club in 1885 which featured Mark Twain as the guest of honor. The Clover Club was formed in 1882 as an “association of prominent men who like a good dinner, and who also like to see their friends enjoy one.” They chose the upscale Hotel Bellevue on Broad Street as their headquarters. Meals were served on a four-leaf-clover-shaped table, reserved exclusively for the club’s monthly dinners.

The Clover Club atmosphere was fun and jovial, with guests often invited to partake in the merriment and delicious food. When Twain was a guest, he expressed that he was a little surprised by his hosts' outspoken, raucous behavior, which he claimed went on for five hours. This extreme rowdiness may actually be the precursor to the modern "Roast," where someone is the subject of good-natured teasing over the course of an evening. In the 1980 book Rituals and Ceremonies In Popular Culture, Ray Broadus Browne claims "the first dinner of the Clover Club of Philadelphia—January 19, 1882—may be looked upon as the beginning of the era of the American roast." 

Other dishes on the 1885 Twain dinner menu included: littleneck clams; printantère à la royale (a consommé of early summer vegetables cut in dainty shapes, with green peas and asparagus tips); hors d’oeuvres varies (a selection of appetizers); truites de ruisseau à la maître d’hotel (brook trout); pommes de terre à la brabant (fried potatoes with parsley); bouchees à la béchamel (petite pastry puffs filled with cheese béchamel); selle d’agneau de printemps, sauce menthe (saddle of spring lamb with mint sauce); petits pois nouveaux (petite peas); sorbet au benefice des acteurs (sorbet “for the benefit of the actors”); and becassines roties sur canapés au cresson (canapés of snipe on toast with watercress).

The betteraves nouvelles au beurre would have been tender, early-harvest beets, grown in southern states and shipped to markets in the Northeast starting in the beginning of June. To best replicate what would have been served in the Gilded Age, try to get small baby beets for this recipe if you can. Leaving the two ends intact while cooking helps prevent the beets from “bleeding.” This simple and delicious recipe compliments any meat or fish dish, or pair it with quiche for a filling vegetarian supper.

SERVES 4

Scrub beets to remove any dirt. Trim the roots and stems so that 1 inch remains. Place in a medium pot, then add water to cover and bring to a boil. Once water is boiling, turn down to low and simmer for 20–30 minutes or until desired tenderness.Have ready a bowl of cold water. Drain beets and place in the cold water. Slip off the skin and cut the beets in thin slices or small dice.Melt the butter and combine with the salt and pepper. Pour over the beets and stir to coat. Sprinkle with chopped green pepper if desired. Serve immediately.