Tuesday, July 08, 2025 | By: Becky Diamond
The kitchen of 100 years ago might seem “rustic” to our modern comforts of microwaves, smart appliances and countertop air fryers, but the 1920s were actually a time of invention and innovation, especially in the kitchen. Reflecting a mix of traditional and modern elements, households were transitioning from old-fashioned cooking methods to more efficient, convenient setups. Electricity and gas were modernizing food preparation, reducing the reliance on wood or coal stoves. Ice boxes and refrigerators allowed for the storage of perishable food. Canned and packaged foods were becoming increasingly popular and more available, meaning less time spent on food preservation and meal prep.
Kitchens were often small and utilitarian with a work triangle (stove, sink, and food prep area) beginning to take shape. A trendy item in the 1920s kitchen was called the Hoosier cabinet (a free-standing kitchen workstation with storage, a flour sifter, and a pull-out workspace). Named after the Hoosier Manufacturing Company of Indiana, the term “Hoosier cabinet” became a generic name for similarly appointed kitchen cabinets. It was a convenient way to organize cooking and baking supplies, functioning as a food pantry and worktable in one. With canned and packaged foods becoming more available, pantries were a necessity. The base had drawers and cupboards to hold pans, linens, and cutlery, topped with an easy-to-clean work surface, kind of like a counter. (See photo generously donated by fellow Historic Foodways member Pat Owens, who formerly worked as a test kitchen home economist & food publicist and is fortunate to have a Hoosier Cabinet that was passed down from her family!)
Other popular kitchen items included iceboxes (early refrigerators using blocks of ice) to keep perishable foods fresh. Wealthier homes had electric refrigerators, but they were still considered a novelty and expensive for many families. Stoves were either wood-burning, coal-burning, or gas-powered, with gas stoves becoming more common in urban areas. In addition, electric appliances like toasters and stand mixers started appearing in modern homes.
Many packaged food companies and appliance manufacturers distributed free recipe booklets instructing housewives how to make the most of these newfangled foods and gadgets, along with appropriate recipes to test and try them. One example is the 1925 recipe book Famous Cooks' Recipes for Raisin Cookery by Sun Maid Growers of California, with recipes by domestic science specialists Alice Bradley, Belle De Graf, Sarah Field Splint and Caroline B. King. Chock-full of raisin recipes, from breads and muffins to cookies, cakes, candies and even some savory options, all feature the still-familiar Sun-Maid raisins in the bright red box. As stated in the preface, the recipes are “economical and unusual dishes from the simplest of ingredients: This is the joy of raisin cookery.”
The one I wanted to highlight was Mrs. De Graf’s Raisin Penuche. Mrs. De Graf (whom the book calls “California’s most famous cook”) had a prolific career, including teaching food science throughout California, serving as Director of Domestic Science for the California Prune & Apricot Growers Assocation, head of the Domestic Science Department for the Sperry Flour Company, editor of The San Francisco Chronicle's Cooking Information page, syndicated in over fifty Pacific Coast newspapers, and author of Mrs. DeGraf’s Cook Book.
Sometimes called brown sugar fudge, this delicious candy is one of the featured recipes in the upcoming Gilded Age Christmas Cookbook, as it dates back to that era, where it could be found in many iterations, often with fruit or nuts, including peanuts, walnuts, pecans, figs, and coconut. It was also a Christmas favorite, as noted in A Norwich(CT) Bulletin article from December 3, 1910, which calls penuche a “good candy recipe very nice for Christmas,” alongside confections such as chocolate caramels, stuffed dates, chocolate fudge, walnut creams, and crackajack (the popcorn and peanut treat we know as Crackerjack).
So though penuche dates back to the Gilded Age, it was still trendy in the 1920s, as shown by the many recipes found in period cookbooks and magazines. And the introduction of gas cooking would have made it much easier to regulate the heat on the stove when boiling the mixture into candy. The recipe featured in my new cookbook is from my grandmother’s mother, Henrietta Ingram Finger, but it is very similar to Belle De Graf’s. And it’s honestly a good candy for anytime of the year. As Emilie Baker Loring noted in the 1914 cookbook For the Comfort of the Family, “Penuche is hailed with acclaim when it appears. . . . [T]he flavor of the candy is improved by sprinkling lightly with salt.”
MAKES ABOUT 1 DOZEN CANDIES
1. Cover a baking sheet with waxed paper. Set aside.
2. Place brown sugar, milk, and butter in a medium-sized heavy-bottomed pot. Bring to a boil over medium-high heat and continue to boil 8–10 minutes until mixture registers 236°F on a candy thermometer.
3. Take off burner and cool for 1 minute, then add raisins, stirring until well combined.
4. Using a small cookie scoop or spoon, drop teaspoon-sized amounts onto waxed paper, leaving about an inch in between.
5. Set aside to harden. When candies feel dry, remove from waxed paper and store in a tin or plastic container.
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